Before we go further about garnets, let's explore one of our favourite gemstones, spinels.
If you have ever admired a vivid red or rich pink gemstone and assumed it was a ruby, there is a good chance it was actually a spinel.
For centuries, spinel and ruby were indistinguishable to the naked eye — mined from the same regions, found in the same colours, and sold as the same stone. Some of the most famous "rubies" in history turned out to be spinels. The Black Prince's Ruby, set proudly in the British Imperial State Crown and dating back to the 14th century, is not a ruby at all. It is a spinel. And it is extraordinary.
Spinel deserves far better than a footnote in ruby's story. It is a gemstone of genuine beauty, remarkable colour range, and exceptional optical quality — and it is finally beginning to receive the recognition it has always deserved.
What Is Spinel?
Spinel is a magnesium aluminium oxide mineral that forms in a cubic crystal structure — the same structure as diamond and garnet. It occurs naturally in metamorphic and alluvial environments, and is found in some of the world's most storied gemstone regions including Myanmar (Burma), Sri Lanka, Tanzania, and Vietnam.
Unlike many coloured gemstones, most fine spinels are completely untreated — no heat, no filling, no enhancement of any kind. What you see is entirely natural, which makes them particularly prized among serious collectors and gemstone lovers who value authenticity.
A Colour Range That Surprises
Most people associate spinel with red, but the colour range is far broader and more exciting than that.
Red and vivid pink — the most classic and well known, often compared to ruby and pink sapphire
Hot pink and magenta — intensely saturated and deeply romantic
Lavender and violet — soft, ethereal and very wearable
Blue and grey-blue — rare and increasingly sought after
Grey and metallic grey — sophisticated, cool-toned and quietly striking. Grey spinel has a steely, almost mirror-like quality that sits beautifully in both yellow and white gold. It is one of the more unexpected colours in the spinel family — understated at first glance, yet deeply captivating up close, with a brilliance that catches the light in a way that feels effortlessly modern yet timeless.
Orange and peach — warm toned and luminous
Black — bold, graphic and quietly sophisticated
Colourless — exceptionally rare in fine quality
Discover our Mia Natural Spinel and Lab Grown Diamond Pendant
Hardness, Durability and Wearability
Spinel ranks 8 on the Mohs hardness scale, making it one of the more durable coloured gemstones available. It is harder than both tanzanite and opal, and sits comfortably alongside topaz and aquamarine in terms of wearability.
This makes spinel an excellent choice for all jewellery types — rings, pendants, earrings and hoops alike. With reasonable care, a fine spinel will look beautiful for generations.
Optical Properties — Brilliance Without Compromise
Spinel has a refractive index of approximately 1.71 to 1.73, giving it a beautiful, glassy brilliance that catches the light cleanly and confidently. Unlike some gemstones that can look dull under certain lighting conditions, spinel performs consistently — in daylight, in candlelight, and everywhere in between.
Its cubic crystal structure means it is singly refractive, which contributes to a particularly pure and even colour appearance. There is a depth and clarity to a fine spinel that photographs beautifully and looks extraordinary when worn.
A History Worth Knowing
Beyond the famous case of the Black Prince's Ruby, spinels have a long and distinguished history in jewellery. The Timur Ruby — another celebrated "ruby" now in the British Royal Collection — is also a spinel. So is the central stone in one of Catherine the Great's most celebrated pieces.
For centuries, spinels were simply called "balas rubies" — a name derived from Badakhshan, the region in present day Afghanistan where many fine red spinels were mined. It was not until the late 18th century that mineralogists conclusively distinguished spinel from ruby as a separate mineral species.
Rather than diminishing their story, this history makes spinels more interesting — these are stones that stood alongside the most powerful figures in history, mistaken for something else entirely. Their beauty was never in question. Only their name.
Why Spinel Deserves a Place in Your Collection
Spinel offers something increasingly rare in the fine jewellery world — natural, untreated colour in a durable, versatile stone, at price points that still represent genuine value relative to their beauty and quality.
As awareness of spinel grows among collectors and jewellery lovers, so too does appreciation for what makes them special. A vivid red or hot pink spinel purchased today is not just a beautiful piece of jewellery — it is a stone whose story is still being told.
At Atelier Cara, we have always believed that the most captivating stones are not always the most obvious ones. Spinel is a perfect example of exactly that.
Discover our Mia Natural Spinel and Lab Grown Diamond Pendant
Discover our Classic Natural Spinel and Lab Grown Diamond Hoops
Discover our Natural Gemstone Jewellery
All images taken by Atelier Cara. ©2026 Atelier Cara. All rights reserved.
Gemological references: Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and International Gem Society (IGS).